I am a beginner when it comes to traveling. It has been only a year or two since I have come to appreciate the joy. Before that, it was one of my unreasonable fears. Travel by bus? I have motion sickness. Travel by train? It requires too much planning. Travel by air? There aren’t many airports around! (Hahaha better than saying I didn’t have money.)
So, now that I have money, I try to plan myself a joyous holiday every June. This time, however, it turned out to be more tedious than expected. I am sure this is a story of every group. In March, we were planning a Thailand trip and we had a group of eight. In April, we reduced to a meager three. Couldn't go to Thailand anymore. We considered several other options and after rigorous thought and consideration, we chose Hampta Pass Trek. Luckily, after the decision, two more people joined us.
Hampta pass gets its name from Maharshi Hampta who used to meditate there. It is situated at the junction of Lahaul valley and Kullu valley in Himachal Pradesh and at a height of 14100 feet from the seafloor. It is a five-day trek. Bikat adventures rates this trek 4/10, that is, at a moderate level of difficulty. The trek starts from the places called Jobra. A forty minutes drive from Manali.
Day 1: Chika
Wait! Hold on. It isn't just Chika yet. You have to reach Manali first and that is not an easy task. trust me. You have to face the traffic first. Only then you get the treat. Nevertheless, the journey does reward well. (As always)
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| It is great to have a Galaxy Note 8. Right? |
We were supposed to report at the SBI ATM near Manali Bus stand by 09:00 AM. We reached Manali at 11:30 by Himsuta bus that we had boarded from ISBT Delhi 07:35 PM a day earlier. When we reached Manali, we had to face several things: tiredness, hunger, heat and a super angry assistant trek leader, Satvik. We collected our trek poles from Satvik. After that, we immediately left for Jobra. Forty-Five minutes uphill drive from Manali.
It was Jobra where we finally got to relax a bit. After a bowl of delicious Maggi and heavenly great tea, we introduced ourselves to other members of the group. It was going to be a group of sixteen people on our trek in addition to our trek leader Somnath, Assistant trek leader Satvik and our guide Chetram. Somnath was running late from his previous trek. So we begin our first-day trek with Satvik and Chetram only.
The first-day trek from Jobra to Chika is only two hours. But short doesn't define the beauty we were in to see before we reached the campsite. I have to preserve the synonyms for beautiful for the views yet to come. So, I will start with the simplest one. It is awesomely beautiful. Don't believe me? Let photos do the talking.
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| Map of Hampta Pass Trek |
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| The Maruti Suzuki Guys |
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| Traditional River Landscape |
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| Trail to Chika |
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| Jobra Campsite (Indiahikes) |
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| Don't forget to click if you are hunting for a new DP |
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| Waterfall near Chika Campsite |
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| View from Chika campsite |
We reached Chika at around 4:30 PM. After some Tea and Pakode, we met our trek leader Somnath. Dark, slender guy with average height. He told us about our routine. Dinner at 7.00 PM and sleep at 8:30. He gave some tips about acclimatization on mountains. Always keep your ear open and head covered. Try to spend some time outside the tent so you could get used to the oxygen level while you are in a rest mode. Also, don't forget to carry your medicine.
Day 2: Balu Ka Ghera
We woke up at 05:30 AM on the 2nd day. Don't worry it is not unachievable when you went to sleep at 8:30 the night before. It was cold outside the tent but not freezing cold. Though there were toilet tents set up for excretion of metabolic waste, I went to the mountains anyway. Don't think of bathing though. The water in the river is freezing cold. We were lucky to make it alive when we washed our faces.
After tea and breakfast, we began our trail at around 8 '0' clock.
It is around six hours trek from Chika campsite to Balu ka Ghera campsite. The weather was great. The sun was playing hide and seek. We didn't need to wear a jacket when we were walking. The trail had some gradient on the 2nd day and tricky too. You get to climb up. walk straight in the valley. climb a stony surface. Cross a river with freezing cold water.
Advice: Be careful with your shoes when you cross the river. Our team member Aditya's shoes slipped while he was crossing the river. Our guide Chetram saved them and acted like a superhero all day.
Yeah, and one more piece of enlightenment - There are a lot of beautiful boulders on the entire trek, no matter what people say, make sure you get your photos clicked on every last one of them.
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| Departure from Chika |
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| Turn around look of Chika |
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| You can do it Sidharth! |
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| Tough trail |
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| After river crossing |
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| Don't forget what I told you about boulders! |
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| A pitch stop in the middle. You can have snacks here. |
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| Mini valley of flowers |
It was an exhaustive day. I climbed up a valley, thinking perhaps I could see the campsite from there. To my surprise, there was another gradient on the front. It happened a few times and then unexpectedly, as I originated from a narrow lane between two vertical stones, I saw Balu ka Ghera. At 12000 feet, it is a beautiful sandy valley enclosed by stony mountains from all sides. At the far end, sprawled the Indrasan peak. The white snow shimmered like a diamond as it reflected the rays from the afternoon sun.
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| Campsite: Balu ka Ghera |
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| Shimmering peak of Indrasan ahead of the campsite |
Around 2:30 PM, we reached the campsite. We were served with steaming tea and macaroni by our kitchen staff as soon as we put our stuff inside the tents. It was drizzling by the time we were done with our breakfast. So we all had to take shelter in the only tent that could hold eighteen people. Boy, did we play Mafia here? We played for about four hours non-stop before we were served dinner at 07:00 PM.
The temperature plummeted in the night. We had no choice but to huddle inside our sleeping tents by eight. Thirty minutes later, somebody shrieked. "I found a watch in my sleeping bag."
"It is Mine!" Somebody else replied cheerfully.
See, it is a task to sleep in a sleeping bag and you have to be careful when you pack it again the next morning. High probability that you can forget some belongings in your sleeping bag. They go for offloading during days and can be found again at the next campsite. It is unlikely you get the same one you packed in the morning. Moral of the story - Be careful when you pack your sleeping bag.
Day 3: The Summit
If you want to know what this trek all about. This is the day for you. Day 3, you cross the Hampta pass. Our guides told us it was a six-kilometer walk. Let me tell you, it is not! It is more than ten kilometers walk with a heavy gradient. Remember the feeling, I told you about climbing up? Well, 3rd day is the day you wish you hadn't come or least curse the friend who suggested. Me? I cursed myself. Other Suzuki guys helped.
We started the same time in the morning as the Day 2. We were distributed with a Paratha and a fruity Tetrapack for our lunch by our kitchen staff because we weren't going to find any place for food between Balu ka Ghera and Shia Goru, our next campsite. The entire path was covered with stones today. And it was all a scramble until Hampta pass. From Hampta pass, it is a straight trail down to Shia Goru. So in short, everything was extreme on Day 3, that includes the view too.
There is a bright side though. One, after Hampta pass, if there is enough snow, you get to slide downhill on the ice. Believe me, your knees are going to love you for that. Two, when the day ends, you get to feel proud of yourself. You started from 11900 feet, crossed Hampta pas at 14100 feet and are at a campsite at an altitude of 12900 feet. All in one day. (this is what cloud nine feels like!)
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| Morning tea at Balu ka Ghera |
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| Horses ready to carry offload stuff |
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| Aren't we all cute? |
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| Contest: Spot the waterfall |
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| Horses carrying stuff to next campsite |
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| Wonder where rivers come from? |
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| Glaciers |
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| Team Bikat at the summit: Hampta pass |
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| View from Hampta pass |
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| Isn't that mesmerizing? |
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| Downhill trail |
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| It is not a monk. It is Chetram. |
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| What did I tell you about boulders? |
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| When there are good views everywhere |
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| Shia Goru campsite |
I reached the Shia Goru campsite at around 04:30 PM, fifth one among our group to achieve the feat. Our group members kept coming until 05:30. We had very little time left for the day. So we couldn't play much mafia before the dinner was served. Around 8:00, when we were having dinner, we could still hear people from other trekking groups cheering as they came down from Hampta pass.
Word of advice, make sure you stick with your guide if you think you are slow. I am sure nobody wants to lose their way in the Himalayas.
The night was really cold at Shia Goru. Why wouldn't it be? Place's name literally translates into cold street. It was raining too. I really felt glad that we were three people inside the tent. Only then I imagined it was feasible for us to sleep without a problem. Anyway, it kept raining all night. Fortunately, the tents did their job very well.
Day 4: Chhatru and Chandratal
We woke up late on our fourth day. It was still raining and the atmosphere was freezing. I couldn't even gather the courage to brush my teeth. I borrowed some mouth freshener from a friend and wiped my face with a wet towel. Water was at another level of cold. Our kitchen staff was late too. They couldn't prepare our breakfast and tea because of the rain. We used the time by taking shelter in the dining tent, gossiping about the trek, share our funny experiences. Great time spent, if I have to describe it in three words.
We still managed to start the day at 09:00 AM today. Ooh! There is another river to cross right after you leave the camp. If I am right, the temperature of the water was easily towards the minus side. We took off our shoes and tied them to our rucksack carefully, especially after the Aditya incident. You cannot afford wet shoes while trekking. Water was drizzling from the sky. We caught each other's hand and began crossing the river. My legs were numb for about twenty minutes after that. Inkalab Zindabad! Bharat Mata ki jay! Jay Mata Di! Nothing worked except you start dancing right after you cross. Only then my feet regained their consciousness.
After the river, it was around three hours walk to Chhatru. It is mostly a downhill trail with plain patches in between and last one kilometer until you reach Chhatru. At Chhatru, the trek officially ends and signs of civilizations are reintroduced to you. Congratulations!
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| Morning at Shia Goru |
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| Happy faces after the river crossing |
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| The unnamed peak |
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| Aww! Don't hide now. We've already spotted you! |
Chandratal
We finished our trek to Chhatru by 02:00 PM and immediately left for Chandratal. It is a three hours drive from Chhatru to Chandratal and the road does not exactly have flowers blooming around. It is a tough road. So it is very important that you complete the trek from Shia Goru to Chhatru in time because it is not allowed to arrive at Cahndratal after 06:00 PM. Also, you have to get back to Chhatru before it is not too dark. The road is not safe at all for night driving considering its condition.
However, I recommend staying awake at every point on this journey. Also, keep your cameras handy. You would be in for some really breathtaking views in Spiti valley. We stopped at the famous Chacha-Chachi Dhaba during our way to Chandratal. They are famous for their work in helping people who stuck in snow a few years ago. We clicked some pictures with Chachi. Chacha seemed busy at the moment.
Chandratal is really beautiful. The Vehicle doesn't go all the way. The lake is about two hundred meters walk from vehicle parking. It is indescribable, as I climbed up the small perturbation and laid my eyes on the view. There were clouds in the sky. Snowy mountains peaking above the clouds. Surrounded by the murk and barren gradient, there is a greenish lake. Stop right there! Don't move for ten seconds. Better you see it yourself. Pictures, no matter how hard one tries, are not the exact justification for what Chandratal really is.
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| Take a breath: Chandratal |
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| The whole group |
Day 5: Back to Manali
On the last day, we woke up at six. After tea and breakfast, we left for Manali. Manali is Eighty-five kilometers from Chhatru via Rohtang pass. It is a tough road from Chhatru to Rohtang. After Rohtang, it gets fine. It is four hours drive on a day no other car in the world will run except yours. However, considering the traffic from Manali to Rohtang, it takes more than six hours. So if you plan to leave Manali the same day, it should be planned after 06:00 PM only.
THE END
